Château Branaire-Ducru 4emé Cru Classé, Saint-Julien, 2005, 75cl

Deep dark ruby garnet, black core, violet reflections, delicately leafy on the nose, fresh cassis, lemon zest. Taut, still somewhat demanding tannins on the palate. Appears somewhat hollow and brittle on the palate, red berry finish, rather slender.

This is opulent, but with restraint. The fruit is rich, black and delicious. Touches of spice and wood are present, lending complexity to the ripe fruits and balanced tannins. Impressive.

I’ve had some bottle variation with this vintage of Branaire, and this bottle is a little subdued. There is clearly plenty of ripe fruits on display, but also tobacco, dried roses, soy, earth, clear tertiary notes. It is charming, with subtle and sappy balance, but very much in its drinking window. Patrick Maroteaux owner at the time.

As usual, the 2005 Branaire-Ducru is one of the more distinctive wines of St.-Julien. Proprietor Patrick Maroteaux has turned out another classic. While not as opulent or fleshy as the 2003, and it remains to be seen if it will eclipse the 2000, the 2005 is a big, structured, intensely rich effort with raspberry, blueberry, and spring flower garden characteristics, stunning purity, full-bodied power, and good underlying acidity as well as harmony. The hard tannins suggest 8-9 years of cellaring will be beneficial; it should last for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.