Chateau Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2005, 75cl

Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château, the 2005 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. It has a focused, conservative (for the vintage) nose with gravel-tinged red berry fruit intermingling with cedar, graphite and pine needle scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm structure and unlike the bottle tasted in January, which I declined to score, there is no green streak on the finish. It is very backward and some might describe it as curmudgeonly. Personally I would not touch it for another five years, even though apparently it is beginning to open according to Henri Lurton. No, I would afford it another two or three years in bottle and let's see where we are then. Tasted April 2015.

Strong ruby garnet, violet reflections, broad edge brightening, inviting red berry confit on the nose, fine wood spice, delicate hints of honey. Full-bodied on the palate, fresh acid structure, powerful tannins, fine dried fruit touch on the finish, medium development potential. The best Brane in a long time.

The fruit has become the main attraction here—layers of ripeness, tempered with an elegant smoothness. The tannins are certainly present in this powerful wine, but they are here to lend support, not dominate. With herbs and very clean black fruits, this is a wine to follow.

Balanced, elegant, understated, old school but resolutely full of grace. I wonder how many people today get excited by the quiet charm of this wine, but it certainly works for me. Will hang in there, and keep impressing over the years, like a 1970s Napa. Roses and raspberries, touch of campfire, broth, crushed mint, crayon, blackberry, understated and charming,with Margaux floral aromatics on the finish. It’s not a bodybuilder, and yet there is a wiry frame and a mouthwatering finish. Harvest September 17 to October 10, 38.5hl/h yield, 3.64ph, 70% new French oak for ageing. Jacques Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner and estate director, Christophe Capdeville technical director.