Château Mouton Rothschild 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2014, 75cl

The 2014 Mouton-Rothschild was closed at first when I tasted the wine in bottle with winemaker Philippe Dhalluin. But as it transpires, this First Growth is just toying with you. Initially quite understated, it responds to aeration like a young child peeking from around a corner and then running out, waving its hands. It suddenly hits you with gorgeous black cherries, bilberry, cedar and wilted rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky smooth entry. This is utterly seductive: a wine without a hair out of place. It is not as powerful or as complex as the 2015 Mouton-Rothschild, yet the precision and focus here is beguiling. It will require five to seven years to absorb the 100% new oak, then it will be an utterly delicious and to use a term employed at en primeur, "cerebral" First Growth that is destined to give two or three decades of pleasure.

The label of this vintage is designed by David Hockney in memory of Philippine de Rothschild. It is a powerful wine in the rich style of Mouton with strong black-currant fruits from 81% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is dense and dark, ready to age for many years. Drink this impressive wine from 2026.

Cassis und Vanille, Karamell, Brombeerblätter, sehr cremig ansetzend, guter Tannindruck mit einem Gerbstoff mürber, weiter Körnung. Tiefe Säure, in Saftigkeit und Frucht elegant, viel Schmelz und darauf eine feingliedrige Füllung. Hat aber mehr Charme als Tiefe – und bleibt in Länge und Intensität erstaunlich diskret.

Incredible iodine, oyster, currants, peat and cedar. Yet subtle. Full body, chewy yet polished tannins and great depth and complexity on the finish. I love the spice and blueberry character on the finish. Vibrant. A sexy style of Mouton. Try drinking this in 2022.

The grilled character on the opening beats is more campfire than gunsmoke, just a little warmer and more evident than with the Lafite, meaning both estates are very much staying true to their character. Here you get waves of peony and rose petals, with raspberry and damson fruits, feels expansive and complex, punctuated by orange peel, pomegranate, leather, espresso, black tea, sweet smoked caramel, with plenty of lift and caressting tannins. Delicious, and growing into a spectacular wine as it ages. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director.