Piper-Heidsieck Rare, Champagne, 2008, 75cl

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Rare, now re-baptized as "Rare Champagne," continues to evolve at a glacial pace. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, freshly baked bread and wet stones, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity and a pretty pinpoint mousse, but much in the way of texture or amplitude has yet to emerge. While I continue to think that this has the makings of a very attractive bottling, continued patience is advised. - William Kelley, Wine Advocate

A restrained Champagne that displays the producer's style quite clearly. On the nose it shows coconut, white chocolate, chalk, lemon zest, green apples and iodine. Amazing white chocolate flavors on the palate. It's full-bodied and zesty with tingling bubbles and a silky texture in the finish. Great tension and complexity, with a lemony finish. Disgorged in 2023. Drink or hold.

The new release of this producer's prestige cuvée comes in its usual beautifully sculpted bottle. The Champagne, from a great vintage in the region, is just approaching maturity still showing minerality from the high amount of Chardonnay in the blend. Nutty flavors are creeping in, keeping the great texture adding complexity. Drink this very fine wine now although it will also age further. Roger Voss

Lemon zest frames the creamy richness on the nose that has hints of chalk and coconut macaroon but also reveals a beautiful depth that evokes summer rain on limestone soils. The palate comes with all the precision and exquisite freshness of 2008 but encapsulates a truffle-like complexity at its concentrated core: there is a floral hit of peony, something rich reminiscent of milk chocolate ganache and more of that virile and pervasive lemon freshness. This is glorious and somehow manages to convey great richness within that elegant and characteristic framework set by the amazing 2008 vintage. AK