Château Latour 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2012, 75cl

The 2012 Latour is a blend of 90.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.6% Merlot and 0.2% Petit Verdot. Medium to deep garnet colored, the nose slowly, measuredly emerges with notions of preserved Morello cherries, baked blackcurrants and blackberry compote, giving way to nuances of pencil shavings, unsmoked cigars, Chinese five spice and sandalwood plus ever so subtle hints of cardamom and eucalyptus. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers mouth-coating black and red fruit preserves with a firm, grainy-textured frame and fantastic freshness, finishing with a veritable firework display of lingering spices and minerals. This is a more restrained, relatively elegant vintage of Latour that may not have that “iron fist in a velvet glove” power of the greatest vintages but nonetheless struts its superior terroir and behind-the-scenes savoir faire with impressive panache. It is drinking nicely now with suitably rounded-off, approachable tannins, and the tertiary characters are just beginning to bring some more cerebral elements into the compote of temptingly primary black fruits. But, if you’re looking to drink it in full, flamboyant swing, give it another 5-10 years in bottle and drink it over the next 20-25 years+.

Dark ruby garnet with purple reflections and a touch of brightening at the rim. Dark berry fruit on the nose is underlaid with a subtle herbal spice, liquorice and tobacco note. Medium complexity on the palate, with red berry notes the defining feature, alongside well integrated tannins which give good structure. A salty finish. Somewhat lacking in charm, still seems very underdeveloped.

Very perfumed with hints of minerals, currants, wet earth and stones. Full-bodied, muscular and chewy. Polished tannins, tight acidity and a savory finish. Very reserved. Muscular. Better in 2019.

Re-release of the 2012 vintage, the first one that came off the Place de Bordeaux, and it is moving into its drinking window at 14 years old, although as ever with Latour there is no rush to drink this, and the wine seems in a similar place to my last tasting in 2022. Plenty of Pauillac typicity in terms of blackcurrant and bilberry fruit shot through with mint leaf and cedar, given depth and character with fennel, liquorice, crayon, crushed rocks, graphite. Muscular tannins but with enough light in between to make this a relatively early-drinking Latour. Harvest September 24 to October 16.