Château Angelus, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, 2000, 75cl

Tasted at the estate during the Connoisseur Week in June 2022, this was the wine of the night among tough competition. Packed with waves of flavor that turn from understated to dominant as it unrolls in the glass, changing each moment in the way that only truly great wines can manage. The texture is dominated by velvety tannins and supple fruits, blackberry, passion fruit, damson puree, turmeric, espresso, tar and smoked earth, with tannins that are just on the edge of austere even at 22 years old, suggesting that although this is at a great moment to drink it is going nowhere. 100% new oak, Hubert de Boüard owner and winemaker at the time.

Furnished with wonderful richness, this has notes of amazingly dark fruit and dark chocolate on the nose. Full-bodied and soft, this has a lovely velvety texture and a chocolate and coffee character. This is extensive and fresh, with hints of mint and spice on the finish. Don't drink this for another five years, pull the cork in 2015.

Medium garnet-brick in color, the 2000 Angélus comes galloping out of the glass with a powerful nose of fragrant earth, steam soil, iron ore and cigar box over a core of prunes, blackberry jam and dried mulberries. Medium-bodied, the palate is elegantly styled with great freshness and loads of earth and mineral-inspired layers, framed by grainy tannins, finishing with a lingering menthol lift. It is in a sweet spot for drinking right now, although it should go on for another 15-20 years.