Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Frionnes, 2020, 75cl

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is one of the more reserved wines in the range, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange zest, confit citrus, crisp yellow apple and white flowers. It's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. Forget it for the better part of a decade in the cellar and reap the rewards, even if it will be approachable sooner. This is another strikingly good vintage for Olivier Lamy, whose tireless efforts over the last 25 years are now consistently delivering some of contemporary Burgundy's greatest wines. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Forget them in the cellar for a decade and reap the rewards!