Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo, 2001, 75cl

Perhaps less nuanced than the Sorì Tildìn, but more powerful, with round, mouthfilling flavors and firm tannins. Hints of tobacco and vanilla add complexity to rich plum and black cherry notes, finshing with a lovely touch of anise. Drink 2015–2030 and beyond

Rich, sparkling ruby garnet; compact nose, currently still a little closed, of ripe wild raspberries, some roses, a hint of leather, everything nicely hinted at, nothing too strong in the foreground; round and balanced on the palate, lots of fresh fruit, lots of fine-grained tannin, high elegance, sounds bright and clear, long finish, aftertaste of tobacco.

The 2001 Sori San Lorenzo is the richest and deepest of these 2001s. It remains cool, inward and totally implosive. Dark fruit, leather, goudron and licorice are some of the notes that begin to emerge over time. The 2001 is dazzling, but it is also very much on the muscular side and needs time to soften. I imagine it will drink beautifully for another 20 years, and that is likely to be conservative in light of the glacial pace with which the San Lorenzo ages. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Angelo Gaja isn’t the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years don’t age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gaja’s recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share.