Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, Champagne, 2007, 75cl

The 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is showing beautifully out of the gates, offering up demonstrative aromas of sweet golden orchard fruit, buttery croissants, peach and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, it's a rich, textural, vinous Comtes somewhat reminiscent of the brilliant 2002. If it gains in tension and cut (as the 2002 did and as I suspect the 2012 will) with more time on cork, it will make this initial rating seem conservative.

Bright straw colour, silver reflections, very fine and persistent mousse. Nuances of yellow tropical fruit such as mango, notes of peach, white flowers, lime zest, almonds, multi-faceted bouquet with a hint of fresh cookie. Complex on the palate, finely-meshed, silky texture, conveys fruity richness without any opulence, full of finesse, very animating and balanced, white pome fruit in the finish, mineral-salty touch in the echo, great harmony and length, a great future for this wine. The problem is that the 2012 is already so perfect that it is hard to keep one's hands off it; it certainly has exciting ageing potential.

Mature and beautifully textured, this magnificent Champagne is just right. The wine's minerality is tempered with acidity and touches of white fruits. This great wine is toasty and balanced, ready to drink.

This is a fantastic and refined Blanc de Blancs. So layered and complex, with lemon curd, chalk, hazelnuts, pastries, baked apples and almond croissants. Structured and tightly wound, with almost imperceptible bubbles. Delicious salty notes at the end. Beautiful. Drink or hold.