Bollinger RD Extra Brut, Champagne, 2008, 75cl

When I was tasting Bollinger's brilliant Grande Année in this vintage, I was trying to imagine how good the 2008 Extra-Brut RD would be, as the style of the vintage seems almost perfectly adapted to this cuvée. Four years later, we have the answer, and the wine is brilliant. Disgorged in 2022, it's more reserved out of the gates than the dramatic Grande Année was on release, unwinding in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, orange peel, freshly baked bread, subtle hints of fino sherry, wet stones and macadamia nut. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a deep core of fruit that's animated by racy acids and a refined pinpoint mousse, concluding with a bone-dry finish. Extremely harmonious and full of youthful energy, it's the finest RD of the decade and one that will richly reward a bit of additional age on cork. In style, the most obvious comparison is with the 1996, but the 2008 is more integrated and harmonious on release. These bottles were disgorged late last year with three grams per liter dosage.

So many dried-apple, grapefruit and buttery-croissant aromas follow through to a full body with density and richness, showing baking spices and pie crust. Turns fresh and vivid at the end with incredible acidity that contrasts the ripe fruit and electrifies your palate. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Disgorged October 2024. Drink now.