Louis Roederer Cristal Millesime Brut, Champagne, 2014, 75cl

The 2014 Cristal is a terrific effort that transcends the vintage. Bursting from the glass with expressive aromas of ripe citrus fruit, nectarine, white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with an exuberant core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids, resulting in a wine that's simultaneously chiseled and demonstrative, meaning that early appeal doesn't come at the expense of the requisite tension for long-term cellaring. Concluding with a long, aromatic and intensely chalky finish, it is a brilliant Champagne that will offer a broad drinking window. This bottle was disgorged in June 2021 with seven grams per liter dosage.

Tons of Amalfi lemon and chalky minerality here plus ripe pear and oyster shell. Quite generous and very expressive on the front- and mid-palates, but the finish is quite sleek and steely. As impressive as this is now it will grow considerably with further bottle age. A cuvee of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, of which a third was fermented in oak. Tasted at the Cristal vertical tasting at the champagne house on July 6th, 2023. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

An initially faint but distinct hint of freshly cut green but ripe apple, of lemon. Subtle florality, a mere touch of freesia, hints at more nuance to come. More time in the glass reveals a sense of still briny oyster shell. The palate is like a summer breeze, caressing the palate with finest, creamiest foam – and again that saltiness that is utterly seductive and appetising. There is immense vertical richness in that creamy but svelte texture. Despite the generosity, the creaminess, there is nothing superfluous to obscure the wine’s essential and clear-cut luminosity. This is a model of sleekness, understatement and depth, an utterly compelling combination of briskness and emollience. Irresistible now but guaranteed to evolve. A.K.

Still young, with toast aromas and shining white-fruit flavors, the latest release of Cristal is just setting out. A dry, tight core of intense flavors are shot through with minerality from the pure chalk soil of the 45 individual parcels in the blend. Drink this wine from 2025. Organic. Roger Voss