Bibi Graetz 'Testamatta', Toscana IGT, 2020, 75cl

Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch. - Monica Larner, Wine Advocate

Clear, slightly brightening ruby. Opens with pronounced vegetal notes, like herbal candy, then fresh, tart cherry takes over. Surprisingly clear on the palate with a core of fine raspberry notes supported by tannins of medium structure. There's good drinking flow, but it then appears quite broad-meshed in the finish and unfortunately far removed from the depth and complexity of other vintages.

Beautiful, fresh aromas of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon bush. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that add brightness and energy to the wine. This is definitely following the new wave of crunchy, vivid Tuscany sangioveses, which emphasize drinkability and transparency. Lighter than past vintages. Drink now or hold.

The subtle nose on this wine releases oak notes first, then cherries, soy sauce, herbs, pencil shavings and eraser, and finally a little orange peel. Graphite and soil come through on the palate alongside more cherries, orange and dried herbs. Tannins hold their shape but let the fruit speak, while acid cuts right down the tongue.

Gloriously jewel-like in colour, understated joyful frame flowing with juicy black cherry, raspberry, mandarin peel, fresh acidities and bounce. Everything feels in high definition, continuing the evolution of Testamatta from its earliest years. Softly brushed tannins that are barely there, extremely easy to recommend, you are going to want to share this wine. Harvest September 24 to October 25, taking things slowly. From a range of plots set at 400m to 600m altitude across Tuscany, with vines that head up to 80 years old. Natural yeasts, manual punch downs, 10 days maceration and barrel ageing with no new oak.